Thursday, June 26, 2014

Static Peak, via Death Canyon

Static Peak, July 20, 2013 (written 6/26/2014). One of the taller mountains in the southern part of the range is the little known Static Peak (11,303'). It's a pleasant morning's walk from the Death Canyon trailhead with a trail for most all except the last bit to the top. A great view, and a good hike. It's about 5-km from the trailhead up the Death Canyon trail to its intersection with the Alaska Basin trail, and then about 7-km more from there. Turn north there, switchbacking up steep slopes, eventually pass just west of and a few hundred feet below Albright Peak (10,552'). Static peak is very obvious beyond once you reach a quite prominent saddle and you can see over into Jackson Hole. About a kilometer later, you reach the Static Peak divide. Leave the trail there and walk up to the summit, about 20 min from the trail.

Approaching the Static Peak Divide at 10,790'.  Static Peak (11.303') is the rounded summit on the right side of the skyline.

Thursday, June 19, 2014

Disappointment Peak, East Cliff Bands

Disappointment Peak. Aug 30, 2012 (written 6/19/2014). Today I have a easy trip planned -- Find my way to the top of Disappointment Peak (10,000'), which I understand from the guidebooks and talk with a GTNP climbing ranger, includes a small bit of class 4 scrambling. But its sort of unclear the best way to go, like usual, I'm likely to be making choices essentially on my own. Disappointment Peak is so named by the first ascent party, who thought it was a viable approach to the Grand Teton. From the valley, the Grand sits directly behind Disappointment, and its impossible to tell they aren't connected. But in fact, there is quite a huge chasm between the two.

I leave the Lupine Meadows trailhead at 0745.  From there, its an easy 2 hour hike past Surprise Lake to Amphitheater Lake at 9698'.  From Amphitheater Lake, you can get a look at the Class 4 scramble that lies ahead.  Above the lake to the East is a vegetated talus slope with a cliff band above. A trail leads through the lower slope to the base of the cliff band. On the right side of the cliff band, there is a steep gully, the best "weakness" in the cliffs.  The trail will stop just below this. You can either climb just on the left side of this steep gully, with just a bit of exposure. Or, enter into the 6 -10 ft wide crack at the center of the gully and climb up behind a very large chockstone. Behind the chockstone, it's pretty tight, it's best to tie your pack to about a 6-ft length of rope or cord and pull it up behind you. (I climbed the face to the left of the chockstone/gully, but on my descent, saw someone else go both up and down behind the chockstone.)

From Amphitheater Lake, crossing up the lower slopes to the right side of the main cliff  band.


At the end of the trail that goes to the bottom of the cliff band.  I climbed the slabs and ledges in the middle of the photo.  The gully with the large chockstone is on the right of the photo and slants slightly to the left.
After I got to the top of the cliff band, I could see the summit.  It's possible to find paths that make travel a little easier as you cross open rocky meadows and a thicket of trees.  As I passed the trees, I aimed for the gaining the summit ridge on the north, or right side.  You'll find climber's paths in several places.  As I got to the upper ridge, I started moving left as the terrain allowed.  Then I traversed across the east facing slabs approaching the summit, and was rewarded by reaching the top about 11:45, or 4 hours from Lupine Meadows.

About 40 minutes from the summit, which is the rounded bump in the left center of the picture.  Aim for it's right side ridge and follow climber's paths.
On the summit ridge, easy scrambling while moving south to the summit.
In this shot, I standing a few feet away from the summit of Disappointment Peak, while in the background is the Northeast side of the Middle Teton.  All the big peaks are spectacular from this spot.

A "selfie"  on the summit, with a view of the east face of the Grand in the background.