SW Ridge, Symmetry Spire. Aug 28, 2012 (wrtiten 8/13/2013) I tried to climb Symmetry Spire via the Durrance Ridge on Aug 12, 1975. It proved too much for me....seemed like an affliction of altitude sickness. A few days later, however, I summitted via the class 4 northwest ledges.
But of course, the desire to do a multi-pitch climb on Symmetry never really went away, no matter how many years slipped by. After our success climbing the Grand Teton just a few weeks earlier, my desire to climb some more had resurfaced. Problem was I knew few technical climbers at home in Sandy, Utah, although there are of course many. So the solution was obvious....I contacted Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, and soon was set up with guide. They recommended the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire (10,546') rather than the Durrance ridge -- its more sustained, and a more fun experience. So the morning of Aug 28, 2012, my guide Keith and I grabbed the first boat across Jenny Lake and soon were hiking up Cascade Canyon. The morning was perfect, and the forecast ideal as well.
Keith and I had plenty of time to get acquainted on the hike up to the ridge. The difference was large - me the old retired guy, and him not long out of college and strong and enthusiastic. I was happy however, to keep up with him for most of the steep hike up Symmetry Couloir. Or at least he let me think so. We did, however, catch up with another climber and guide (from Exum Mt Guides) who were hiking up to climb Symmetry as well. Not knowing their objective and wanting to get on the route first, we passed them by and never looked back.
The Southwest Ridge route is 7 pitches of class 5, and then some class 4 on the summit ridge. It had been a very long time since I had done that much class 5. The crux (5.7) comes on the 3rd pitch as the route moves on the right side of a prominent dihedral.
We started the climb about 9:30 am, and I was happy it started off easy; good for me to get comfortable with communicating with Keith and belaying the way he asked. We got a good rhythm going; we could get through a pitch in about 35 minutes. The crux seemed a bit impressive at first, but as my turn came, I was able to take advantage of the awesome grip that Teton rock has for a climbing shoe and things went well. The fourth pitch also seemed challenging at first; it included a small blocky fractured roof that fortunately had great holds. About this time, I heard the voices of the climbers we had passed. They appeared to be on the Durrance Ridge. Keith and I were sure to use each others' names on our signals to avoid confusion.
We did 3 more class 5 pitches. One memorable one was probably at the 5th pitch, where the best holds are found by stepping left above a particularly airy face with (I think) an slight outward bulge. I found this short move to be as exciting as the crux, although it was easier climbing. Soon we were done with the fifth class work, and changed into approach shoes for the scramble along the ridge. There was a spot or two, however, where the exposure was impressive and I was not unhappy that Keith continued to belay me as needed. Guides are cool.
We got to the summit about 1:30 pm, had lunch, and started an easy walk down the northwest ledges until we could pass over to the top of the Symmetry Couloir. Then down on the typical loose scree. After a bit, we stopped and Keith graciously detoured and retrieved the gear we had left at the base of the climb. Although we had not had a long day by any means, I was tired from the effort and took my time down the couloir to Cascade Trail. We made the Jenny Lake boat a bit before 5pm. As we had passed the Durrance Ridge we still heard shouts of climbers from high up. Seems like the other party was having a longer day and it seemed unlikely they would make the last boat. I was very glad we had with time to spare.
Even though it required a 37-year break and the highly capable services of a mountain guide, I couldn't have been happier to finish up this long delayed climb on Symmetry Spire. There was some celebration over beer and pizza that night....
But of course, the desire to do a multi-pitch climb on Symmetry never really went away, no matter how many years slipped by. After our success climbing the Grand Teton just a few weeks earlier, my desire to climb some more had resurfaced. Problem was I knew few technical climbers at home in Sandy, Utah, although there are of course many. So the solution was obvious....I contacted Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, and soon was set up with guide. They recommended the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire (10,546') rather than the Durrance ridge -- its more sustained, and a more fun experience. So the morning of Aug 28, 2012, my guide Keith and I grabbed the first boat across Jenny Lake and soon were hiking up Cascade Canyon. The morning was perfect, and the forecast ideal as well.
Keith and I had plenty of time to get acquainted on the hike up to the ridge. The difference was large - me the old retired guy, and him not long out of college and strong and enthusiastic. I was happy however, to keep up with him for most of the steep hike up Symmetry Couloir. Or at least he let me think so. We did, however, catch up with another climber and guide (from Exum Mt Guides) who were hiking up to climb Symmetry as well. Not knowing their objective and wanting to get on the route first, we passed them by and never looked back.
The Southwest Ridge route is 7 pitches of class 5, and then some class 4 on the summit ridge. It had been a very long time since I had done that much class 5. The crux (5.7) comes on the 3rd pitch as the route moves on the right side of a prominent dihedral.
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| The Southwest Ridge route on Symmetry Spire. |
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| Looking up from a belay stance about half way up the climb. This is a 5.6 pitch. |
We got to the summit about 1:30 pm, had lunch, and started an easy walk down the northwest ledges until we could pass over to the top of the Symmetry Couloir. Then down on the typical loose scree. After a bit, we stopped and Keith graciously detoured and retrieved the gear we had left at the base of the climb. Although we had not had a long day by any means, I was tired from the effort and took my time down the couloir to Cascade Trail. We made the Jenny Lake boat a bit before 5pm. As we had passed the Durrance Ridge we still heard shouts of climbers from high up. Seems like the other party was having a longer day and it seemed unlikely they would make the last boat. I was very glad we had with time to spare.
Even though it required a 37-year break and the highly capable services of a mountain guide, I couldn't have been happier to finish up this long delayed climb on Symmetry Spire. There was some celebration over beer and pizza that night....
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